Apparently this knauf foam is pretty dense

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/knauf-insulation-30-x-1200-x-600mm-xps-multi-use-foam-board_p00269596

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/climafoam-50-x-1200-x-600mm-xps-insulation-foam-board_p00269605

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/climafoam-2200-x-1200-x-30mm-xps-insulation-board_p00271321

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/search/products?q=xps foam

But, the MadRES i really liked as it uses solid balsa cores CNC milled with carbon caps. It uses the Zone V2 DLG airfoil, so it's razor thin, and should cover ground/deal with wind with ease. Its a very fast build, and comes out under 400g!

https://www.hyperflight.co.uk/products.asp?code=MAD-RES&name=madres

So, i couldnt resist it. So heres some pics of my build so far:

As usual, i forget to take pics until im halfway through the construction of the pod... Basically ply with internal formers and saddles all glued with wood glue.

Glued - you can see the 2m balsa hatch cover as well.

hatch cover fitted. Little magnet for hold-down glued into the former. Small tab on the front of the cover, and a metal washer on the back for the magnet to attract.

Hatch on. You can see the boom in the background and if you look close enough in the back of the pod, you'll see the hole(s) the boom feeds into.

Someone elses MadRES.

First one:

I'll gorilla glue the wing halves and main spar in rather than epoxy.  Can anyone tell me if I should still use the balsa spar caps if using gorilla glue?

so I thought I'd get one more and use them for flaps and tail.  Can anyone suggest a reasonable servo for the ailerons - the manual says two 26gm size servos - cheap is good but also reliable/strong.

Looking forward to rejoining the fusion combat mix next time out.

Most hobby shops seem to sell them as replacement heli parts listing model numbers etc. None seem to list measurements... So im at a loss to know which f**king one to buy.

anyone shed some light on this?

I'm about a 1/3 of the way into an EPP plank build and thought I would tap the hive brain for suppliers of the less common stuff. Especially as one day I want to give the bagging method a whirl (not this build though).

Can anyone put a supplier to the following stuff:

• Kevlar for live hinges. Not to difficult to find kevlar tape in the the heavier grades but hinges should be down at ~1.8oz/ft2?


• Mylar for bagging. Does Electropar still sell it?


• Baggys for, well bagging?


• Favourite places for resin and fibre-reinforcement?

Cheers,

Brendan.

This is my first hollow-moulded composite wing fabrication (i have done a few AFP fuses) and i have made a few silly mistakes like forgetting the kevlar hinges in the horiz-stab (put in before i joined the two halves), and also the hard-points for the horiz-stab (i will inject some splooge in and around the bolt holes for the hard points).

Sorry this is not a full build thread, just a photo montage. I didnt take half as much photos as i should have, but at least i have some to share. The basic steps to building a hollow-moulded part is as follows:

1. Clean the moulds
2. wax the moulds generously
3. Paint the moulds with desired colour scheme.
4. Then lay up glass/kevlar/carbon as you see fit. In my case the tail feathers were: 50g veil glass cloth, 200g glass on 45, 100g carbon spar cap, corematt, 100g glass. Wing was: 50g veil glass, 300g glass on bias, 300g glass, 1 full length 25mm wide 300g carbon uni spar cap, then another 2/3 length length 25mm wide 300g carbon uni spar cap doubler, 200g carbon patch about the centre (400mm or so), corematt (not covering spar-cap), 175g kevlar live-hinges on bias/45, then another 200g glass.
5. put in vac bag and suck down hard (i used 20" hg/mercury)
6. once cured, release vacuum, and clean up over-hang material with very sharp wide chisel.
7. Create a spar shear-web and hard points for bolts. The horiz-stab has a peice of 5mm spruce. The wing has a 13mm pine shear-web. Not end-grain, but should be strong enough.
8. Create trailing edge spar with foam and carbon sock. Create control-surface leading-edge spar with foam and carbon sock (these get squased down when we close the moulds.
9. Run a bead of thick epoxy/glue-powder around the edges of the wing etc and spar shear-webs and hardpoints
10. put two mould halves together with locating pins and clamp down.
11. When cured, open mould and pull/pop out part.
12. trim it up and clean up leading edges etc.
13. Cut control surfaces in being careful not to cut through your kevlar hinge!

So, now, i just need to cut the control surfaces and wait for Neal to finish the fuselage moulds... Then i will have a scratcho to fly!

Weights:

Horizontal = 89g
Vertical = 41g
nose cone = 37g
Wing = 1.2kg

Heres the Scratcho thread:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1660287

So we start with 40mm green insulation foam (from Foremans in Petone), and cut out the basic profile of the two halves:

Then these are my hotwire templates made from Alu from hardware store. I started with the profile printed out and then stuck on with contact glue then cut out and shaped and smoothed with sandpaper.

This you can see the wing profile the will make eventually:

I made a mistake and started with the top cut first. You should actually do bottom cut first with these sort of templates, so after the cut the core 'drops down' 1/2mm on to the bed. My mistake will mean the core will be actually slightly thinner than intended. Templates stuck on with spray adhesive.

Here you can see my hotwire bow with its car charger power supply. Foam is weighted down so it doesnt slip while pulling the hot wire through. Note the station lines to help me cut the taper correctly - wire must pass through the stations on both sides at same time with the inside chord being wider, you have to move faster on one side.

And one cut on one half down

Now the bottom cut:

And repeat for the other half, and you get your two cores (note the bumpy tip surface):

Some spackle to smooth out the crappy hotwire job:

Tape the cores together - we use those when bagging to keep it nice and true:

Use spray adhesive to stick a 25mm 45 degree bias glass tape around the leading edge for strenth and to help the LE join.

Wax Mylars:

Mask for bottom vis stripes

And paint (bottom):

Top:

Cut out the cloth (200g glass from bunnings). Top and bottom skins (45 bias) and then some central doublers for strength for the nose and around the fin and equiptment bay etc:

Ready to go in bag (not shown are the kevlar hing strips). More to come...

I thought I'd post the below photo of my Moth wing as we're building it a bit differently to how the instructions suggest. The main difference is that we're putting all the electrics in the wing, which is how the Uber Moth is built. Being new to soaring (the Moth is only my 3rd build) I took up Jono's very kind offer of assistance, very ably observed by my brother Nick.

So the Moth:

- I followed Jono & Nick's advice to put everything in the wing as it's a (hopefully) easier build, and for ease of future repairs. Nick or Jono can add any other reason's I've overlooked.

- We decided to put the push-rods on the top of the wing rather than the bottom per the instructions, hence why the servo's are mounted on the top of the wing. We did this mainly for robustness when landing (if you've seen my landings you'll understand). We didn't think doing this would impact on the flying performance. I'm pretty sure this will mean we'll bottom-hinge the elevons.

- As the electrics are in the wing, the cut-out compartment in the fuselage forward of the wing (where the receiver, jack switch, etc would usually go) will need to be glued in place (allowing for some optional space for ballast in that general area).

- The Moth instructions have the servo's quite close to the fuselage, but the Uber Moth's are placed mid-way along the length of the eleven's. We went more for the latter, placing them around 30cm from the wing centre (where they're joined together).

- The compartment in the middle of the photo is for the battery, and the one to the left is for the receiver, jack switch, and lost model alarm. The battery bay is slightly off-centre to allow for the weight of the electrics in the left-hand compartment. I put the receiver etc. outside of where the fuselage goes so I can access it easily later on if I need to. I didn't think it would be much of a problem covering the battery with the fuselage, plus its good to centre that weight. Before I cover the wing I'll add some counterweight if I need to to ensure its nicely balanced.

- We had no problems when routing out the depth of the battery bay. The main thing is having it close to the main spar where the wing is thickest. We had to be a bit trickier with the electrics bay though. The lost model alarm is quite deep, very approximately around 15mm, so we graduated the depth of the left-hand bay by doing the forward half (closest to the spar) deep enough for the alarm, and the rear half only deep enough for the receiver. This ensured the foam at the bottom of the bay was of reasonable thickness - maybe 2 or 3mm.

- You can see we potted the right hand servo. We mixed some micro-balloons with some 5min epoxy and that gave us (read Jono!) plenty of time to position the servo. We of course wrapped the servo in gladwrap and lightly weighed it down as it set, flush with the top of the wing. As it dried we carefully (so as to not break the gladwrap) pushed the epoxy away from the servo output shaft & horn. I'll need to dremel more of it away later so there's sufficient room for movement. The servo snaps in well and has zero movement. We did this last night and this morning although the resin/balloon mix was hard, it didn't feel 100% cured.

So that's really all I had to share. I thought this could be useful for anyone else building a Moth or similar and wanting to see how someone else has positioned everything in the wing.

Cheers,

Simon

The box wasn't the best, but the airframe survived. Putting it together only took a couple hours. Quick go over with the iron to get the film sticking better, and some control horns plus linkages and pull pull lines.

Flies as good as it looks. Holds knife edge. Like actually holds knife edge lol so a true all axis aerobat.

https://www.youtube.com/shared?ci=C38AnKeTNvs

• better spar system. Each wing half comes with a leading edge spar already pre-glued in, and an almost full-length main carbon spar.
• comes with a set of balsa elevons (finally!)
• 60" span
• much less built in reflex in the wing profile.
• wire tunnels and cool little EPP pocket plugs.
• centred servo pockets (centred on the elevon)
• ready moulded fin slots.

The original Bat came with EPP elevons and the first thing to do was cut them off and replace them with custom made balsa ones. With the Bat 2 you could fly with the EPP elevons (has built in stiffener slots) if you wanted to build a light air light-weight sloper. But i suspect most will simply cut off the EPP elevons and go with the pre-made balsa versions.

Packaging was ok. You can see in one of the photos one corner of the trailing edge is bent upwards - sorry Jono, same on both kits. As usual you get the uni-directional fibre tape (pretty good) and coloured poly tape (rubbish).

It comes with laser cut fins (3 of them) - a curious choice.  I will go with a single larger custom made centre fin for less drag.

So, i got two kits - one for me, the other for Jono.

I will build mine as a medium weight slope/light-DS ship. I like to build first kits close to stock to see how it pans out. We'll see if i can resist going all-out...

So, i have glued my two wing halves together. Before you do that, you will need to sand the two faces to help the glue - as these are injection moulded with mould release, the glue wont stick otherwise (you've been warned). Also wet the carbon spar and lightly sand (stops dust) and wipe clean to key up the shiny carbon. Then glue! Be warned the carbon spar is about 8cm too short for the slots it goes in, so be careful else you will end up with the spar being uneven (eg more on one side, and not much on the other). I was careful to get it centred (took time...) as i glued it.

I have noticed on mine the wing is slightly bent backwards (eg adding more sweep) and the elevon cut outs are slightly bowed. I suspect this happened when they glued in the LE spars

bench fly (Jono's kit behind)

packaging fail...

here you can see the pre-glued LE half-spars.

All glued up... Not rigid enough for my liking. will need to add some more spars!

The MAXA Pro 4 is the first F3? glider I have bought brand new, and as mentioned elsewhere, I've been dying for ages to get something to replace my scratch built Supra which I wrote off at Matamata a couple of years ago. That was a complete b*stard after so much work. Anyways, I fell in lust with the MAXA whilst attending a recent F3j meet at Matamata where more than half the guys were flying them. Afterwards I rode home on the bike trying to figure out how I could justify buying one. After finally realising I could'nt, I decided my life would be better with one anyway. The MAXA is produced by Vladimir's Models in the Ukraine but I ordered one through Dave's Toys for Big Boys in Aussie because it seemed the easiest way and the price did not seem to be affected.

Vladimir's web site has the coolest colour picker for your model, you can select from a number of colours for each component separately and there are a few options for design logos as well. While waiting for the model to be built, I went ahead and ordered from Dave a few KST servos and a 5 AA Cell 2500 mah Eneloop Rx battery which duly arrived, so I set to and cut some servo frames from birch ply in readiness for the install. The eneloop battery turned out to be faulty and would not receive a charge so I intend returning it to Dave. I subsequently bought some AA Eneloops from Jaycar and made up my own Rx pack.

The MAXA arrived after an 8 week wait, protected from damage by the excellent 1.5m plywood box reinforced with 20x20 pine framing and plenty of foam sheets. After levering off the lid the first component out of the box was the fuse pod, which is a masterpiece by itself, carbon with a kevlar layer, which is be there to assist the carbon shell from shattering in those popular dork landings. Next was the spread-tow CF tail boom complete with pushrods already installed and shaped to fit onto the pod perfectly. This perhaps the most impressive component because the strength for weight is amazing! it's slightly oval shaped for greater strength and so light you hardly know it's in your hand. Its also shaped so the fin/rudder can easily be removed for transport. Next was the stab which also felt so light that at first I thought it just wouldn't be strong enough. But of course I knew it had to be and so when I tried it for torsional strength and longitudinal bend, it too was impressive and molded from the same spread-tow CF. Out came the wing tips and centre section all with the same gorgeous finish and after close inspection, I could not fault anything except a tiny area on the extreme flap TE tip, which had broken off somehow. But its so tiny Im not going to worry about it.

The wing centre section bolts onto a superb aerodynamically clean pylon, very similar to the Supra with four small metal allen screws from the underside. The wing tips come with two sets of CF joiner blades with your choice of 5 or 7 degree dihedral depending on your circling preference on the day. Flap cables are pre-installed and you get a full wiring harness complete with two four pin plugs. The centre comes with pre-installed female plugs already fixed, ready for use. The only wiring required is to extend your aileron servo leads which plug into the pre-installed aileron servo leads inside the centre section!

The servo bay in the pod comes with a ply servo tray which you have to install yourself and the MAXA is designed for two tail servos to lie flat inside the canopy area. Fitting the 5 cell battery was a bit of a mission as the nose is very narrow, and as a result, the Futaba 9 channel Dual conversion RX had to go aft of the rudder/ele servo tray. I'm sticking with my 40 meg system as all my models have their own receivers these days, so the antenna will exit the pod and run outside along the top of the CF boom.

Aileron and flap servos are currently being installed with their respective servo frames using the method shown by Ollie on YouTube, at FlightComp. This involves coating the servos with mold release wax, then PVA parting solution, then mounting the servos into their frames and epoxying the whole thing inside the servo bay which has been scuffed up with 80 grit and cleaned with alcohol or acetone to remove any residual surface sheen that might interfere with adhesion. After full cure, the servos are unscrewed from their frames and pulled out easily with pliers, leaving the frames solidly in place. A better system than any I've used before. The control surface rods for ailerons and flaps come pre-made for the MAXA at the correct length which considerable improves and simplifies the installation process. Once I had programmed my Futaba 10 CAP Tx with maximum sub-trim, the flaps deploy at a satisfactory 75 degrees. I'm stuffed if I can get any more travel out of this tranny, I've tried and tried but my programming skills are not that great. 

More later....

This all started after wreaking the Reaper once again, and then watching just how hard Pete kept repeatedly hitting the ground with his bat causing no apparent damage . I thought to myself, I gota get one of those. It will complement my flying skill superbly.

The kit showed up about 2 weeks after ordering and I set to work. My first impressions of the kit were that the ailerons (made of epp) would not do and the 1 carbon spar provided, was way to short and not tough enough.

I used the carbon spar provided as it helped hold the two wing sections while I glued them together with epoxy. Then I used a soldering iron (with a screw in place of the tip) and a steel ruler to melt more slots into the wing for a full length carbon spar and a leading edge carbon spar with a spring steel wire joiner. All spars were glued in place with gorilla glue.

I filled the gorilla glue bubble holes and over cut holes with epoxy and micro balloons, then painted the whole model with Plasti Dip (rubber compound) giving the leading edge several coats. I sanded 2 ailerons from a rectangle piece of balsa and vac bagged some carbon kevlar on.

I gave the top a light spray of Ados F2 glue and covered with a layer of fibre tape on an angle then one more layer angled the opposite direction.

It is going to be a conventional layout model with a cross tail

My aim is for first conventional style foamie over 200mph

Sadly, I sold the model after investing quite a lot of time and $$$ constructing it. But the other day I spotted an unfinished kit on TM, a 3.5 metre Fox from a Chinese manufacturer. So I drove to Tauranga and bought the kit. A very nice glass fuselage, canopy and cockpit with sheeted and covered wings, rudder and tailplane, a spare canopy and bag of hardware bits and pieces. The fact that the projected flying weight is 4.8 kgs made it a nice replacement and the slightly smaller span seemed a more manageable size...I thought it will be perfect for Raglan.

There are a few quite nice features such as airbrakes with integrated servos, so you don't have to buy and install separate servos, the wing sheeting seems to be 2.5mm instead of the usual 1.5mm. The wing joiner is a hefty 16mm solid steel rod weighing in at 1 kg.  I don't mind this as the overall flying weight is still quite light and it certainly simplifies and speeds up rigging at the slope. The fuselage already has a very large cockpit frame and several formers to strengthen down the tail moment.

At the moment, after spending about 20 hours, the model is almost finished. Another 2 or three hours will sew things up and then of course the wind won't play ball for three weeks.

A few photos to follow.I usually put the Wog in these photos for scale, but she would not cooperate, that's her in the first one... ( no it's not my Great granny's hat ! )

Requirements were that the model should be a scale representation of an actual powered glider; sized around 2.5m W/S so it would be suitable for park flying and ridge soaring as well as club flying; ARF balsa as I ain't got much building time; maybe able to ROG and 3S powered so it will be a passable thermaler.

Found several contenders, but the one that took my fancy was the MotorSpatz from VQ Models in Vietnam.

The SF-24 MotorSpatz was designed in Germany as a powered version of the existing Spatz glider and was first flown in 1960. Around 50 were made and a few are still air worthy in Europe with a couple flying in the USA.

The VQ model ticked all the boxes and had a cool colour scheme as well. Had a hunt around and found the best deal at my old mate Gustav Staufenbiel in Germany. I have been buying from this outlet for many years and they periodically have some good seasonal sales, so I always keep my eye on them. They have several outlets in Germany and got bought out by Horizon Hobbies last year. I figured that would be the end of their special sales, but they let rip with some good spring sales this year and the Sparrow made a return trip half way round the world back to south asia. 

The model came with a power package comprising motor, ESC and prop. Overall, I was pretty impressed with the kit. A few little QC niggles, but otherwise good value for money. Nice covering job with the covering being printed and of the sticky backed vinyl type. This stuff gives a stronger finish than shrink covering, but is slightly heavier and, of course, you can't shrink it if it gets wrinkles. A nice touch is that they give you a couple of spare bits for any repairs.

So, on to the assembly.

The included manual is satisfactory and I started with the tail feathers – just a standard build. I replaced the stock Z bend push rods with some threaded rods and replaced the elevator horn with a stronger one.

Had a few QC issues with this area, but a bit of modelling got them fixed.

The model is supplied with some softwood dowels for the locating pegs on the wings. Didn't much like the look of them so replaced them with same sized cf tube and ran the front one right through the fuse and glued it inside to form a compression strut. The wing joiner is an aluminium tube which is probably OK, but I epoxied a c/f tube inside it to beef it up a bit.

There is space around the prop area for air to get in, but no provision for air to escape, so I opened a couple of holes in the fuse out of the way under the wing and attached some covers – the spare covering came in handy.

Up to the business end – I just made a 13mm block to mount the motor on giving it a few degrees of down and right thrust.

Motor is positioned well and the cowl is a good colour match to the fuse. The model is 1/5.6 scale – you have to provide your own pilot.

Some Corona CS-238MG servos should do the trick and fitted well (also used on the ailerons).

Beefed up the hardware again on the aileron controls.

Set up is:

ESC: 40 amp
Motor: Pichler Boost 25 980kv
Prop: 10x5E
Battery: 3300mAh 3S

The manual recommends that the CG be set at 68-72mm from the l/e. This looks about right, but I have read a couple of reports of the model being hard to control at this setting and in one vid the model tip stalled a nose dived into the dirt. I checked the decalage with a meter and it looks OK, so I think a rearward CG must be the problem. Will set it at 60mm for the maiden.

Well, it was a pretty quick build and she's ready for the maiden – just got to wait for a nice calm sunny morning - maybe tomorrow

I'll start

The ply (was acrylic) keel will look like this:

Couple of things to note:

1. The area above the wing is intentionally missing as the CF tube is only gnat's whisker from the wing top surface and the ply would not have lasered very neatly, so best just to remove that line.


2. There are little 'bars' where the CF tube goes. These need to be cut out as they are only there to hold everything in place until the keel is glued into/onto the foam.


3. There are two little holes near the nose. These are the 1" indicators. If you want to keep in the DS foamie rules you will need to cut the ply at this point and replace with 3mm foam.


4. Just behind these holes the cutout goes fat. This is to accommodate a lead-cylinder. I have no real idea if its large enough so you may need to make it bigger? If you need it to be smaller just use a piece of plastic pipe. Otherwise one of those cheapo aluminium torches from Bunnings should fit in their (that's what I modeled it off).

Next up are the cardboard cutouts. They are pretty self explanatory except to say I have included 3mm locating/centering holes. Easiest way to make sure everything lines up if you have a drill press, is to put a 3mm bit in the chuck, set the drillpress bed to be square and then slide the two templates (and foam) over the drill bit. Put another bit in the other hole to complete the aligning of templates either side of the 20mm foam.

Now to the wingtips. This uses a two part template. The first use of this template is to cut out the wingtip curve. You then cut the segment out of the template to get a beveling curve. Here's how you go about all this:

1. Put the template as it comes over the wing to be cut.


2. Using the template hotwire, cut the round off the foam wing.


3. Now bend a wire (eg: coathanger) around the tip curve just created and tape it to the wing - this will be one end of the hotwire bevel.


4. For the other end cutout the bevel curve on the cardboard template and put the template on the wing again.


5. With your hotwire at the appropriate angle use the templates to bevel off the tip in preparation for sanding finishing. This approach will give bevels the same on both sides and help keep everything symmetrical and repeatable. I used this for Slopey1800 and it works a treat

And that's all from me for the mo, please add your suggestions!

Eg: different AUW weights for different DS'ing scenarios, servos for the different AUW builds, elevon %, etc.

Cheers!

As a kid I always had wanted a SIG Ninja, so this was pretty close!

AUW: 1050gm/37oz

Corona DS339MG Digital Metal Gear Servos A/R/E

OrangeRx R610 Spektrum DSM2 6Ch Reciever

VB Power 6.0v 1500NiMh Receiver Battery Pack

The servos are some new ones from HK, the appear pretty robust at this stage, time will tell but first impressions are good, have chosen 6.0v given the digital servos and the 5x2/3AA pack fits in real nice.

Can't wait to get er in the air!

TBRC is a re-incarnation of R2 Hobbies which disappeared when the principals had a bit of a bust up. They cracked on that they were moving warehouses and had some good sale items on offer (got a spare Gliderman body for USD85) and then just closed the site down. I thought that was it and then TBRC popped up selling the same stuff (planes still sourced from Oshmen's Hobbies) with some new models in the line up, including a Gliderman with flaps and some Jartish looking thing.

http://thebuildrc.com/rc-aircraft.html?___SID=U&cat=23

I had been thinking of making a pod to power up a couple of old beat up hand launch planes I have and was taken with NPS Thermal glider with it's detachable pod that could be moved from model to model - with a bit of plumbing work. So, ordered that and it turned up a couple of weeks later. R2 had one of the best packing operations I had come across and this has been inherited by TBRC. Really good internal securing and the box comes encased in 5mm depron that could be used to build an indoor model.

Easy build and great looking model.

Maiden flight went well. With the pod mounted motor, the nose area is left free and on the second flight I mounted my trusty Mobi on the snoz and tried a bit of AP. Just taped a bit of lead to the boom to compensate. The vids came out quite well with very little distortion under power and the model could be used for light weight FPV I guess. The addition of flight stabilization and dampeners for the camera would be cool. There isn't much spare room inside, so some of the gear would have to be mounted outside which would be a bit ugly, but looks don't really seem to count for much when it comes to FPVing 

Here's a couple of screen grabs from the Mobi.

Also shot some hat cam vid and spliced in some Mobi footage.

https://vimeo.com/157936805

The model will also be a fun light wind ridge soarer and can be flown with or without the pod I expect.

Will have a look at fitting the pod to other models when I get a mo. 

The model comes with a built in fire wall so you can add a motor and folding prop so it can also be flown as a park flyer. I used the motor and prop from the HK Wingnetic which fit well. Makes a great park flyer as it is fairly light and almost silent with the Wingey set up.

An interesting feature is that the wing has leading edge drooperons that improve agility.

Took the E-Zulu out to the beach the other day and had some great sloping flights with it - really love this model

Here's a vid - all flights were in gliding mode. Still getting to grips with how best to utilise the drooperons.

https://vimeo.com/146740865

So I gave it a bit of a makeover which involved a recover and, as I wanted to also use it for ridge soaring, the addition of some ailerons.

Just got it finished yesterday.

This morning turned out to be primo for the maiden so I got everything together and headed off down to the park. Great flying model - nice and relaxing flying.

Here's a vid - click on the Vimeo icon to watch it in HD.

>https://vimeo.com/131375832

• sharpened wingtips (& then epoxy reinforced for strength). I think this look better and with no aerodynamic knowledge, 'feel' that the plane should fly faster.
• linkage arms to aileron and flaps - under or over the wing? over looks better IMHO, however this might not be sufficient for the 90 degree downward flap travel I was planning on. under on flaps & over on aileron would probably look a bit silly?
• some small carbon fibre stiffeners in the v-tail. A bad place to add weight (so far back), but when snapping a turn on the fusion it used to annoy me seeing the V tail flexing.
• The picture in the build guide looks like it has a small bit of flap attached to the fuselage which is unmoving (see below). This looks pretty good to me, but does it add anything aerodynamically other than shortening flaps?

I'll post photos as soon as I get going. It will be a slow build log due to minimal spare time, but hopefully a new stage gets posted every week.

Cheers

Some may have seen my Bearcat build its just a giant foamy covered with 2.5 mm Balsa and Glassed the wing is hollow with foam ribs and oak spars ,the Fouga is the same build technique but I just went and cut foam wings this time round

Specs

wing span 2..9 mtr

Root Chord 320mm

Tip Chord 220

section MH32 @12 root and 10% tip

Tailplane section Eppler297 @10%

AUW projected 12KG

Loading Projected 25 /27 oz sq ft

controls:

Aileron .Ruddevators, Flaps mixing for crow ,reflex and Chamber.

SteveW

http://www.trademe.co.nz/electronics-photography/radio-equipment/vintage/auction-915654135.htm