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taurineman    10

I've been thinking about building a 2m woodie to replace my much missed Allegro Lite. 2m RES is HUGE in Europe at the moment, with countless cool modern designs: Slite, PuRES, X-RES, RES-olution, picaRES, AndREaS, Samba-RES, MadRES, FreshRES, Miles, etc etc. You get the idea. These are building out around the 400-500g mark with 2m span. Most of these are built-up balsa rib/spar/covering construction, and they take forever to build...

But, the MadRES i really liked as it uses solid balsa cores CNC milled with carbon caps. It uses the Zone V2 DLG airfoil, so it's razor thin, and should cover ground/deal with wind with ease. Its a very fast build, and comes out under 400g!

https://www.hyperflight.co.uk/products.asp?code=MAD-RES&name=madres

 

getpic.asp?size=l%26code=MAD%252DRES&f=1

So, i couldnt resist it. So heres some pics of my build so far:

As usual, i forget to take pics until im halfway through the construction of the pod... Basically ply with internal formers and saddles all glued with wood glue.

IMG_20170823_212703.jpg

 

Glued - you can see the 2m balsa hatch cover as well.

IMG_20170824_203354.jpg

 

hatch cover fitted. Little magnet for hold-down glued into the former. Small tab on the front of the cover, and a metal washer on the back for the magnet to attract.

IMG_20170830_213858.jpg

 

Hatch on. You can see the boom in the background and if you look close enough in the back of the pod, you'll see the hole(s) the boom feeds into.

IMG_20170830_213922.jpg

 

Someone elses MadRES.

 

 

IMG_20170824_203345.jpg

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taurineman    10

Wing cores as they come in kit. All pre-milled to correct shape.

IMG_20170830_214508.jpg

First you glue in some little pre-cut ply hard-points.

IMG_20170831_191857.jpg

 

Like so...

IMG_20170831_192751.jpg

 

Next the joiners. Cut little slot to fit the joiner tube.

IMG_20170831_210116.jpg

 

like so:

IMG_20170831_210135.jpg

 

Then remove joiner boxes and dry-fit the carbon battens into their pre-milled slots. And drizzle thin CA to glue em in place.

IMG_20170831_210746.jpg

 

Same on bottom

IMG_20170831_211345.jpg

 

Then cut slot in outer panel for the the G10 joiner itself and dry fit.

IMG_20170831_211823.jpg

 

Remove joiner and dry-fit carbon battens. And again drizzle thin CA to fix em in.

IMG_20170831_212456.jpg

 

For some reason the bottom carbon batten slot is quite short... But glue em in the same way.

IMG_20170831_212501.jpg

 

Now epoxy in the joiner boxes into the main panel into the slots we cut out earlier.

IMG_20170831_214655.jpg

 

Then epoxy in the joiner itself into the outer panels and set them with block under wing (44mm at tip) to get correct polyhedral.

IMG_20170901_213639.jpg

 

Easy as...

 

 

 

 

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taurineman    10
22 minutes ago, jonoashton said:

Holy crap. is that a solid balsa wing?? how did you shape it??

Yip it is. No it comes like that out of the box - all CNC milled to perfection.

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taurineman    10
11 hours ago, made_in_nz said:

Great build Pete, I guess we won't be seeing it out at titahi bay though ?.  

Look forward to your next installment.

One of those light-air days, perhaps. This should actually be very fast for what it is: extremely high aspect ration, 4.5% thick profile, 2m span. She should be very slippery.

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taurineman    10

Next is the outer panels need the tips glued on with epoxy and glue powder. Need to set them at the correct poly angle as well (85mm).

IMG_20170903_084918.jpg

Same on the other side.

IMG_20170903_084911.jpg

 

While that was curing, i set up correct alignment of the boom and glued it in with epoxy and glue-powder. The kit provides a little ply jig (you can see it on the end of the boom closest to the camera) for alignment. I also drew two straight parallel lines on the bench: one is the centre line. the other shows where to line up the edge of the fuse (at its widest point) and the edge of the supplied jig. I also inserted a straight piece of 3mm balsa in the tail slot and a carbon rod across the wing saddle to check the boom slot is square to the wing saddle. Leave to cure.

IMG_20170903_084837.jpg

 

Done

IMG_20170903_085013.jpg

 

 

Once that was cured, i decided i wanted to beef up the joins and joiner boxes and joiners etc. These steps are not in the manual, but i wanted to beef it up a little as i felt i might not be strong enough for those tough launches and rough landings. So on the joiner boxes and on the outer panels where the joiner is glued in i cut two slits along the carbon spar-caps/battens so i could wind some kevlar thread around the top and bottom battens to stop them spreading apart under load. Then i poured in some thin CA into the slots to seal them back up again.

IMG_20170903_112431.jpg

 

Next  i put 40g bias glass patches over the outer panel poly break top and bottom just to make sure those tips don't get knocked off. I also put a patch of 50g bias glass over the top and bottom of the joiners etc to help spread some load around. Carefully sponge out all the resin you can (its just dead weight).

IMG_20170903_112502.jpg

 

The whole wing assembly :)

IMG_20170903_100717.jpg

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taurineman    10

f*ck ive had it with shit servos... 4 out of 6 KST X08s that ive got kicking around have failed. Either twitchy or just continually rotate...

I got some bluebird BMS-101HV servos so i could run this thing on a small 2S lipo. One of them just continuously rotates. The other two seem fine (so far). Now i need to get another bl**dy HV servo. I have one KST X08 which is behaving itself, but *I just dont trust it*

Anyone got recommendations on good (like really good) cheap(ish) micro 8gram servos?

I'll probably just go and buy MKS - i've never had one fail.

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taurineman    10

As usual im a bit slack at taking enough photos. So here is the vert and horiz fins all done. Bits allready pre-cut and shaped. Just need to glue on the end caps and insert the carbon reinforcement, then glue the ply hard-point in. Then sand to a tapered shape. They get pretty thin and torsionally weak. Im hoping the covering film gives me back some strength else i might have to put some bias glass on them. People online seem to fly them ok as-is, so lets see how it handles in high speed dive.

 

IMG_20170905_212138.jpg

 

Then fit the vert fin into pre-cut slot in boom. and tack with some CA.

IMG_20170907_213514.jpg

 

Then mount the pylon onto the horiz fin and tack with CA the horiz fin in place and square to the other fin and parallel with the wing. Then we can take off the horiz fin. Now everything is in its correct place we can put some epoxy and glass on to permanently attach and strenthen them.

IMG_20170907_213535.jpg

 

Here you can see the pylon and some bias 50g glass soaked out with resin. Same with the vert fin. Again be thorough about soaking up as much resin as you can with a cloth, as every gram added here requires and additional 5g in the nose to ballance.

IMG_20170907_215137.jpg

 

Once cured, bind the boom forward of the pre-cut fin slot with some kevlar thread and a drop or two of thin CA to stop it splitting down length-ways.

IMG_20170908_212232.jpg

 

Using dremel cut-off wheel, cut two slots for the control wires to exit the boom and thread the wire through. The kit comes with same light steel thread, but i used beadalon 7-strand plastic-coated steel thread - a bit lighter. Threading through to the pod with a thin peice of old steel pushrod worked a treat. Make sure you dont get a twist/cross-over in the boom!

IMG_20170908_215326.jpg

 

And lastly a cheeky 'bench'-fly (actually a dryer fly)

IMG_20170903_101143.jpg

 

Almost there. Just needs covering and fit-out.

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taurineman    10

a bit of covering. Im using white transparent Oracover lite, and yellow trans oracover which is a bit thicker/heavier. I'm using the thicker stuff on the control surfaces in the hope it stiffens them up a little. Seems to have helped a little bit, but not much. I am a little worried about control surfaces twisting/fluttering at high speeds (launch and dives). Time will tell...

 

IMG_20170911_210350.jpg

IMG_20170909_165725.jpg

IMG_20170909_170745.jpg

IMG_20170911_210007.jpg

 

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made_in_nz    6

In all the time it has taken you to do this I have had my Moth's fuse sitting on my work bench waiting for me to iron out a few wrinkles in the nose before moving on to the next step!

Looks good Pete.

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taurineman    10
1 hour ago, made_in_nz said:

In all the time it has taken you to do this I have had my Moth's fuse sitting on my work bench waiting for me to iron out a few wrinkles in the nose before moving on to the next step!

Looks good Pete.

The MadRES is ridiculously easy to build... not much to do except assemble and cover. The joiners were the most fiddly bit, and even then not that hard.

Get on and fix that Moth60 dude :)

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jonoashton    16
On 9/6/2017 at 9:54 PM, taurineman said:

f*ck ive had it with shit servos... 4 out of 6 KST X08s that ive got kicking around have failed. Either twitchy or just continually rotate...

I got some bluebird BMS-101HV servos so i could run this thing on a small 2S lipo. One of them just continuously rotates. The other two seem fine (so far). Now i need to get another bl**dy HV servo. I have one KST X08 which is behaving itself, but *I just dont trust it*

Anyone got recommendations on good (like really good) cheap(ish) micro 8gram servos?

I'll probably just go and buy MKS - i've never had one fail.

you could try these

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100-orginal-1pcs-EMAX-ES08MAII-12g-1-8kg-Mini-Metal-Gear-High-Speed-9g-Servo-Upgrade/32677583157.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.cNw6Sr

nice build

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AlexH    9

I'd seriously go JR285(385) if you want reliability. Every X08 and MKS DS65 servo I've had has failed.

Alternatively the Hitec 65 is a great servo

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AlexH    9

ALso have had amazing success with Corona servos.... Proven to 318mph on my SC60 and 294mph on my afterburner. Also run them in all my FPV race wings. Not one has failed in over 20 servos.

 

Id recommend the 919 or 929

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taurineman    10

Ive ended up putting D47s (i had a pile spare) in, and a hitech 5035hd for the spoiler. binned all the bluebirds...

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taurineman    10
9 hours ago, AlexH said:

I'd be highly concerned about their robustness and torque for that frame

Hyperflight recommend them for this (or the ripmax clone of them). The whole frame is only 390g flying. I think they'll be fine. Time will tell.

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taurineman    10

Covering... Im a bit slack at taking photos. But here's a tip finished... 40grams.

\IMG_20170920_215835.jpg

 

Here's my first attempt at a spoiler linkage. I abandoned this concept as when it was fully closed the servo arm and push rod started to foul on the control cables which run directly below it when the wing is on the fuselage. I didnt want the spoiler servo arm pulling on the elevator or rudder control cable...

IMG_20170928_220211.jpg

 

Second attempt.. This time is direct drive with a long servo horn and a torsion spring which you can see just to the left of the arm along the hinge-line. Now the servo arm doest rests well out of the way of control cables when closed :)

IMG_20171007_134848.jpg

 

Install. I used two D47s - not alot else will actually fit... On antenna whisker runs along the side of the fuse, the other goes across at an angle which you can see above the front servo. You can also see the spoiler servo connector (for DLGs) at the rear. When the wing is mounted the contact on the wing contacts this and the circuit is complete. No plugs :)

 

IMG_20170920_221040.jpg

 

Bench (stool) fly:

IMG_20171007_134737.jpg

 

IMG_20171007_134959.jpg

 

IMG_20171007_134922.jpg

 

It took about 35grams of lead up the front to balance at the mid-point of the suggested CG range (73-78mm). Tow hook is about 2mm forward of the CG for now.

Flying weight = 393grams.

Just got to wait for the trentham range to be usable. then i can maiden it...

 

 

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